Carmel Valley Tranquility

A little south and east of the Monterey/Carmel peninsula is home to a number of wineries and beautiful boutique hotels. The Bernardus Lodge actually combines both, with a smallish (read exclusive) number of rooms and a two fabulous restaurants - Marinus and Wickets. This trip began with a fly-in to the Monterey Peninsula Airport's 7,600' runway featuring probably one of the prettiest approaches in the country. It's as breath-taking as playing a spectacular hole along the ocean in the middle of your round of 18. The FBO (MillionAir) has always been very helpful. A call ahead on Arinc 131.50 will have your rental car under the wing before the engines spool down (or, in our case, before the props stop turning).

It was a mid-July get away and, as is common, there was considerable fog at the airport until noontime; however after the burn off, it was a very comfortable 75 degrees for the balance of the day. At the Bernardus Lodge, we were welcomed with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc - a Bernardus label of course - and the welcoming, personal attention that is customary for this five star property. The ubiquitous lavender was in full bloom. We learned that the next week it would be harvested and the chef will be preparing several lavender-based dishes to celebrate.

Since we were early, we dropped off our bags and headed up the street about a mile to Cafe Rustica; an excellent recommendation from the concierge. The food at Cafe Rustica is traditional California, but with a french flair - and a french waiter in our case. Not to diminish the excellent food in general, the thin crust, wood-fired pizza was underdone to my taste. Also located in Del Fino Place, next to the Cafe are two interesting antique and collectible shops. I am not an antiquer, but my wife is, so we visited both. The Avant Garden was filled with a eclectic variety of knick knacks especially suitable for the shabby-chic decorator types. The Kim3 International Furnishings next door featured home, garden and gift selections from "13 countries and 5 centuries" including a couple of the large and rustic farm tables we have been looking for. http://www.kim3.com. Another good choice for local dining is Will's Fargo Dining House and Saloon. As it happens, this is also owned by the Bernardus and a more casual, but very tasty alternative that tends towards big prime steak dinners.

Bernardus guests are treated to complimentary tastings at the Tasting Room about 2 miles east of the Lodge. There were eight wines in the flight ranging from the Sauvignon Blanc we drank upon arrival to two Chardonnays, a Cabernet, a Pinot and two of the flagship Marinus blends. Not too far away is the Talbot Winery tasting rooms, a friendly favorite. Named after the Talbot children, the tasting list featured a Kali and Logan Chardonnay and Pinot as well as the Sleepy Hollow version of Chardonnay and Pinot. We bought the Kali Chardonnay and the Logan Pinot.

Lastly (especially for my tastes) we must mention the spa at the Bernardus. A perennial favorite of my wife, I suppose it has everything an aspiring spa-goer needs. Please explain then why I am still putting aloe vera lotion on her back a week after one of the "hot rock" treatments was evidently over-temperature? Ah well - at least it was expensive...