Hoos'gow Day - Follow the Swallows part 2

Another quirky Swallow's Day tradition in San Juan Capistrano is Hoos'gow Day. On the Friday before the Swallow's Parade the city celebrates its western heritage by dressing in period clothing and recreating, for a day, the wild west feel of the late 1800s. If you're not prepared, you'll be thrown into the Hoos'gow!

The self-appointed Sheriff and his deputies roam the town looking for anyone not dressed in western wear and any man who is clean shaven. If you're found, its into the portable pokey for you until you make bail (a donation to the Fiesta Assocation).

This year, the City is celebrating its 50th Swallow's Day parade. Each year in March, the swallows complete their 7,500 mile migration northward from Goya, Argentina, through Paraguay, across the Andes, to the Yucatan and then northwestward along Baja California into the region around San Juan Capistrano. In the fall the make the return trip, thus completing a 15,000 mile annual migration. If you're flying towards San Juan Capistrano, you'll take the more usual route through John Wayne Airport to the north or Palomar airport to the south. See previous posts about great places to rest on the South Orange County Pacific Coast.


If you happen to be in San Juan Capistrano tomorrow for Hoos'gow Day don't be alarmed if a group of bandits burst into the store or restaurant with guns blazing (blanks, of course) demanding all the cash from the safe. After the merchant turns over the loot (which is actually gold foil wrapped chocolates in a net bag), there's usually some candy left over for the young 'uns.

The evening of Hoos'gow Day is considered by locals to be the best fun of the weekend before the hoards of tourists descend on Saturday for the parade. The Friday night atmosphere in town is truly old-west and friendly, and unique among towns in "the OC."

Photo credit to the SJC Fiesta Association; for more information click here.

St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort

Just south of Laguna Beach, and about 20 minutes from SNA (John Wayne Airport) three world class hotel resorts dot the Pacific coast. In south Laguna, the Montage resort features classic California Craftsman cottage-style bungalows in a first class setting cascading down to the beach. Further south the community of Monarch Beach, sports both the Ritz Carlton and the St. Regis. At John Wayne, make rental car or pick up service arrangements through Signature Flight Support or Atlantic Aviation.

We have stayed at the St. Regis a number of times and can recommend the Spa Gaucin as well as the fine dining restaurant called Motif. Probably the best kept secret, however is the private Monarch Beach Club. Not only can you get all beachside towel, chair and cocktail services, but a spectacular restaurant and bar overlook one of the finest semi-private beaches in Southern California. Make reservations early in your stay and arrive early for dinner in order to enjoy the view from the cocktail lounge. In addition to surfers and dolphin, the scenery includes migrating humpback whales in March and in September. It may be the cocktails, but we have personally seen the elusive sunset "green flash" twice while sitting at the Beach Club Bar.

As you would expect, the resorts are pricey and the service at the St. Regis is showing some cracks although the property is holding up better than the older Ritz just across the Pacific Coast Highway. Also, they are still building resort villas all around the St. Regis, so the scenery and noise level are temporarily impacted.

Sailing to Catalina Island

"..26 miles across the sea; Santa Catalina is a-waitin for me" (1958- The Four Preps)

Instead of flying to the Airport in the Sky try sailing to Avalon Harbor. On a 222 degree heading from the Newport Harbor bell buoy the 6 hour plus sail to Avalon harbor can be calm or calamitous or anything in between. A good weather forecast is a must even for this short trip. If you don't own a boat, and good thinking there, you can rent one at Windward Sailing Club in Newport Harbor. I've been a member for 30 years and highly recommend it. You'll have to do a check-out and sailing test, but they maintain their boats well. We rented the C'est la Vie, a Beneteau 44.

Our favorite plan is to meet at the Lido Village Boardwalk in the early evening and load the boat with 4 day's provisions. Then we have a leisurely dinner at one of the dock side restaurants until about 10 or 11 pm. After dinner we board the sail boat and head out. If we time it right, everyone except the skipper sleeps and we usually arrive at Avalon harbor around 6 am and are first in line to get a mooring assignment from the harbor master who will meet us at the mouth of the bay.

Even though inside the harbor is usually better, we have enjoyed moorings in the first two rows at Descanso Beach just west of Avalon. Its a very quick dinghy ride into the beach where there are showers and other facilities, as well as small shops and an open air bar. The beach itself is very rocky at the waterline with some sand further ashore for laying out. There is also a water taxi that will pick you up at your boat and take you to the main harbor and downtown. This is a great Avalon Harbor reference page for anyone considering the trip.

There is little to do in Avalon apart from shopping, drinking, dining and the occasional movie in the art deco Casino building. Going to the movies here is a real blast from the past. There is actually a live piano playing in front of the audience next to the screen before the feature performance. Catalina is probably best know for wonderful snorkeling and scuba diving. There are also places to parasail or rent kayaks.

In 1972 the island was donated by the Wrigley family (of chewing gum fame) to the Catalina Island Conservancy, a non-profit organization. Although more than two-thirds of the island is protected you can get hiking permits through the Conservancy and view first hand some of the rugged scenery that provided the backdrop for many early Westerns. In fact, there is a sizable population of buffaloes on the island, descendants of the original ones used in early filming.

Follow the Swallows to Capistrano

The 50th annual Swallow's Day Parade happens on March 29th.

Claim to fame: reportedly the largest "non-motorized" parade in the US. Its also probably the longest, however that's ok; mostly because the parade is something that is going on in the background while most of the town celebrates in the local watering holes along the main drag.

Nearest fly-in airport is John Wayne (about 20 minutes away); Palomar is a good alternate (40 minutes). If you've never been to San Juan Capistrano, Ca this is a good day to give it a try. The town is home to the Mission of the same name which was founded in 1776 by Fr. J. Serra, the person behind the establishment of all 21 Missions throughout the state. The tour of the mission is recommended (although maybe not on the day of the parade). Historical Tidbit: the missionaries tanned animal hides which were loaded on sailing ships in nearby Dana Point Harbor, so-named for Richard Henry Dana, author of "Two Years before the Mast."

So much for the history lesson. The favorite aforementioned watering hole is the Swallows Inn which is a must-see. Don't be deterred by the line out the door; its worth it. In years past, more inebriated patrons have been known to actually ride their horses (from the parade) through the rustic bar. Trivia Tidbit: one of the fight scenes in the Clint Eastwood movie "Heartbreak Ridge" was filmed here. Another anchor point for spirits is the El Adobe Restaurant which usually features dancing and music in the back patio.
Worth the day trip - get there early so you can grab a parking spot nearby to the action. See you there.